{"id":3569,"date":"2023-06-18T21:21:00","date_gmt":"2023-06-18T19:21:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/steffi-luka.de\/?p=3569"},"modified":"2026-02-02T11:53:47","modified_gmt":"2026-02-02T10:53:47","slug":"logrono-najera","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/steffi-luka.de\/en\/logrono-najera\/","title":{"rendered":"Logro\u00f1o – N\u00e1jera"},"content":{"rendered":"

Day 11, June 18th, 2023<\/p>\n\n\n\n


I leave Logro\u00f1o around six. It thundered until the early hours of the morning, I don't know how I would have fared in a tent. And just like in Pamplona, \u200b\u200bpeople from the previous night are still hanging around everywhere in the city, some still in party mode. I could hear their loud shouting all night, sometimes right next to the open window. So either every weekend is a holiday in Spain, or they basically party every weekend. Strangely enough, I also happen to be in a big city when it is the weekend.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

My rucksack feels incredibly heavy again today. So much for 'it is getting easier after a week on the Camino'. Yeh, right. I am seriously considering sending my tent home along with my heavy sleeping bag and the hiking boots. Instead I would buy trail running shoes like most people here wear, and a lightweight sleeping bag liner, and then I would only sleep in hostels. But no, I have come here to camp! I am a tent hiker after all, looking for adventure! Something has to change though, because at the moment it is more of a chore than fun, so what can I do?
At a crossroads I finally take decisive action and throw away my two gas canisters, my pee bottle, two packets of instant soup (which together are quite heavy), my coffee and my collection of tea, milk, and sugar. I realise now that luxury doesn't work here and is only a burden. Coffee in the morning for example is a luxury. The goal here is to complete the journey, and thit is only possible with minimal weight. I suffer without coffee, but I can manage. I can walk ten kilometres without my first coffee of the day, but I can't walk ten kilometres with aching feet. And the faster I am by carrying less weight, the sooner I will get my coffee at some open bar.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Beyond a lake just before La Grajera, I see an old man with a long white beard sitting in a stall, stamping passes and selling pilgrim staffs and scallop shells, as well as biscuits and nuts. He is another legend on the Camino de Santiago, his name is Marcelino Lobato Castrillo. He has been walking the Camino up and down since the early seventies, and his photo hangs in many bars along the route.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Just as I am stowing my pilgrim's passport back into my rucksack, my polish friend Vadim arrives - the bloke who sleeps in churches und who gave me some of his food and drinking chocolate in Villatuerta, the evening before I fell ill. He remembers me as well and thanks me profusely for the cheese sandwich I had left for him. He says it tasted so good, especially since he is a vegetarian. I begin to think that he can't afford fresh food and lives exclusively on supermarket staples. Vadim tells me that last night he slept on a children's playground in Logro\u00f1o under a roofed climbing frame, and that during the thunderstorm!  <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Everything changes in Navarrete<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

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