Day 28, July 5th, 2023
The white curtains turn out to be rather suboptimal, as we discover that night. There is a lantern directly in front of the windows, and it is, without exaggeration, so bright in the room that I could read a book. But because I am so exhausted, I still sleep like a log, as I do pretty much every night on the Camino.
Angela and I set off together initially, but after a cup of coffee we part ways and continue on our own. We will see each other again at the hostel in Villafranca del Bierzo anyway.
Sweet Fruit
Apart from a few less attractive villages that still belong to Ponferrada, the surrounding Bierzo wine region is absolutely stunning. Blooming poppies add splashes of red to the sea of green vines, in places the landscape reminds me a lot of the Black Forest. The wine grown here is known for its unique climate and its indigenous grape varieties such as Mencía, Godello, Doña Blanca, and Palomino. It's a shame I'm not a wine drinker, I would definitely be in my element here.
I am walking along a country road about fifty metres beyond the village of Cacabelos, when I spot Angela half-hanging in some tree again. Her cheeks are stuffed with something, she can barely speak and just points upwards with her hands. Oh wow, it's a fig tree, laden with early-ripening fruit! And only a short time later my cheeks too are full of figs. As if we haven't eaten for days, we stuff the sweet fruit into our mouths and pockets. I can imagine that a pilgrim could easily live off the roadside in late summer, there are so many fruit trees along the way. I would probably have my pockets full of pears, apples, plums, cherries, hazelnuts, walnuts, apricots, mulberries, and of course figs, and consequently wouldn't be able to move because of a very heavy rucksack.
Shortly after the fig tree the path turns directly right into the vineyards, far away from roads and houses, it is simply breathtakingly beautiful, and once again I don't want it to ever end.
Villafranca del Bierzo
I arrive in Villafranca del Bierzo around midday and treat myself to a proper lunch of spaghetti Bolognese. I realise that I should eat as soon as I can get something, because then a few nuts before bed would suffice in case I can't find anything or am too exhausted to look for something.
On the other side of the village is Akis hostel. The warden offers me a coffee and gives me time to get myself organized before he takes down my credentials and giving me the pilgrim's stamp. Then I hear someone hobbling down the stairs which can only be Aki with her foot problems, I think, and when she comes around the corner to greet me, we fall into each other's arms, incredibly happy to see each other again. Aki looks well but is still limping badly. She will only be walking short stages in the next few days as she is not bound by a schedule and can adjust her route accordingly. I explain to the warden that a friend named Angela will be arriving soon, but he says she is already here. Impossible, I think, she was behind me when I last saw her in the vineyards. But Aki confirms that Angela is upstairs, sitting on her bed. I can't believe it, where did she overtake me? well, we won't solve the puzzle, so why even try.
It is incredibly cosy upstairs. The dormitory is situated under a sloping roof, bright and spacious. Instead of bunk beds there are single beds with even proper fabric bedding!
Yes, I know, I should get out and explore the sights, like the Gateway of Forgiveness at the Romanesque Santiago Church from the 12th century, where pilgrims who could not continue to Santiago on their own received their indulgences, not to forget all the palaces and mansions in the village.
I think I need to walk the Camino de Santiago again, but in shorter stages so to be able to explore everything, because as things stand now, I am just not up to it by the end of the day. Angela is in much the same boat, and Aki is definitely not different at the moment, so we spend the afternoon resting and chatting. I cool my swollen feet in cold water in my collapsible bowl, Aki plays on her phone, and Angela does yoga in front of the bed. I am enjoying the company and doing absolutely nothing like I have in a long time.
The three of us crave healthy food, and since this hostel has a kitchen, we decide to visit the supermarket and get some groceries. We end up with rice and various vegetables, as well as a few things for ourselves to take the next day. We cook together in the kitchen and then enjoy a delicious, healthy meal. We drink Prosecco, and it is really lovely.
Tomorrow Angela and I plan to walk together to our next destination, O Cebreiro. And because we both tend to do things a little differently than others, we have decided to walk the Camino duro the so-called hard way. It is a bit longer than the usual route along the boring N6 and the motorway, but it is supposed to be considerably more strenuous and climbs steeply into mountainous terrain right from our hostel. My guidebook says this route is more suited to energetic pilgrims. Are we? Let's see.
I am completely content with myself and everything right now. I can't even imagine a normal life outside of my travels anymore. It is almost as if there is no other reality. I am totally relaxed, I have no pressure, and I don't bear responsibility for anything other than myself. I am centered, and I would like to stay there forever.
Distance: 24,4 km / Steps: 37037