Day 15, June 22nd, 2023
During the night one of my earplug comes out, and I witness Nicola snoring like a chainsaw! When he wakes up in the morning he is no less noisy. He sits on his bed and sings and driving me absolutely crazy. He speaks neither English nor German, and I speak neither Italian nor French, so I don't understand a word he says.
The trail begins with a steep climb, and I cross a hill called Matagrande. It is so quiet up here, the early morning mist hangs everywhere after last night's thunderstorm, and the sun hasn't quite managed to break through yet. Red poppies line the cornfields, larks sing to my left and right, and the nightingale is also here again. It would be wonderful to camp up here. If I ever come back to this place and there is no storm in sight, I want to pitch my tent here. I could walk like this forever, if only I could get a coffee.
Just before the next village I spot a police car in the distance and two police officers writing something down, right next to a tall tree. Immediately I think of Holly and imagine her being struck by lightning, and the police is still there to take final notes after her body has already been taken away. Sometimes my imagination runs wild.
A German woman named Sathya is walking behind me. I met her last night in the hostel kitchen while I was heating up my paella. We walk together for a while and sit down at a bar on the edge of town, where she gives me some of her oatmeal so I can hopefully go to the toilet. It is now day eight without success. Three days ago I was able to, well, how should I put it, at least drop something. Have you ever seen the droppings of a goat?
At a neighbouring table, I spot the two French women from my room last night with their companion, the snoring rotten-tooth-Nicola. Sathya tells me that the two women bumped him up somewhere and have been together ever since. He massages them and such things, but apart from that Sathya can't imagine what they see in him, especially since the age difference is quite significant. He is at least twenty years younger than them.
The sun is coming out, and I am setting off again. I already decided last night to take a rest day in Burgos and therefore booked a hotel room for two nights. There is a Decathlon store in the city where I plan to buy some trail running shoes, the kind many others here on the Camino have. Apart from that, a rest day will do me good.
Beyond Orbaneja Riopico I opt for an alternative route that runs alongside Burgos airport. The main route via Villafría follows a main road for a long stretch, and I don't fancy that.
Arriving in Burgos, I find a small café near a fountain and order a pilgrim's meal for twelve euros. This combo consists as usual of a thin slice of beef, a handful of fries and a crispy salad. It tastes absolutely fantastic and I thoroughly enjoy the meal. Since the portion is rather small, I am looking forward to eat something again in town this evening.
My hotel is actually a university campus that is rented out as a hotel when it is not occupied by students. My room is large and bright, I am pleasantly surprised. However, it is also very simply furnished - there isn't even soap. But I do have towels, a huge bed and a TV. Unfortunately the bathroom smells terribly of sewage, so I have to keep the bathroom door closed. I quickly wash a few things and take a short siesta. The Spanish people have their siesta between 2 and 5 p.m. as well, all the shops and most of the restaurants and bars are closed in that time.
Later I wander around somewhat aimlessly. None of this place really grabs me, and once again I feel rather lonely in this city. I can't quite put my finger on when or why this feeling of loneliness arises, but I often felt it as a child, even when I wasn't alone. Sometimes it is simply the unfamiliar surroundings that make me feel uneasy. But then, as I am just coming out of a souvenir shop, there is Angela, licking an ice cream and greeting me warmly. Oh, it feels so good to see her! We sit down in a café, order gin and tonics and sangria and chat and chat. It is such a lovely atmosphere that we order a second drink and even go out for a meal together.
Distance: 20,3 km / Steps: 37035